In this classic Provençal fisherman’s stew, the only rule is that it should be a mix of different kinds of fish and shellfish paired with a combination of garlic, tomato, saffron, and fennel. The seafood suggestions in this recipe are only a guide. Feel free to substitute whatever you can find very fresh at the market. Well-scrubbed clams, mussels, shrimp, all in the shell, can be added, as can a number of fish types: snapper, halibut, and perch, to name a few. Remember that bouillabaisse should capture the flavor of the freshest catch of the day, and need not adhere to strict rules. Heat in a large saucepan, over medium heat until the butter is melted: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, 5 to 10 minutes: 1 medium leek (white and green parts), cleaned thoroughly, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces 1 small bulb fennel quartered, cored, and thinly sliced 1 medium celery stalk, cut into thin diagonal slices 1 bay leaf 1 star anise, or 1/4 teaspoon anise seeds or fennel seeds (optional) Peel of 1/2 orange (optional) 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads 1/2 teaspoon salt Add: 3 cloves garlic, minced Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes more. Reduce the heat if the bottom begins to scorch. Add: 1 tablespoon tomato paste Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in: 1/2 cup dry white wine Bring to a gentle boil and cook for 3 minutes. Stir in: 1 1/2 cups canned whole tomatoes, with juice, broken into pieces 2 cups Fish Stock, Fish Fumet, or Express Fish Broth 1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper 3/4 teaspoon salt Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. The bouillabaisse broth can be made a day in advance. Bring to the smoking point in a large soup pot over high heat: 2 tablespoons olive oil Add: 12 littleneck clams, well scrubbed Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Keep the oil from smoking. Remove the star anise and orange peel if using, and add the reserved broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in: 3/4 pound monkfish, sea bass, red snapper, or halibut fillets, or a combination, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces Continue to cook, covered, for 1 minute. Stir in: 12 sea scallops (12 scallops weighs about 1/2 pound) Cook just until the seafood is done, 2 to 3 minutes more. Discard any clams that are not open. Stir in: 2 tablespoons Pernod or anisette (optional) Serve with: Croutons Rouille